At a glance
Mumbai is the bubblegum glamour of Bollywood cinema, shopping malls full of designer labels, cricket on the Oval Maidan, promenading families eating bhelpuri on the beach at Chowpatty, red double-decker buses queuing in grinding traffic jams and the infamous cages of the red-light district.
About the city
Mumbai is located on the Salsette Island, off the west coast of the Arabian Sea, in Maharashtra, western India. Its flanked by land on three sides and the sea on the west, this is what makes it an important port. Mumbai in fact, is the only place to have a natural harbour. This pungent drama is played out against a Victorian townscape more reminiscent of a prosperous 19th-century English industrial city than anything you'd expect to find on the edge of the Arabian Sea. It's a city with vibrant streetlife, India's best nightlife, and a wealth of bazaars. Religious Places Siddhivinayak temple No other temple in Mumbai has as much a following as this one does. On any given Monday night, you will see hundreds of people walking bare foot all night long to reach this ganesha temple. Such is the faith in the elephant god. It is said that this temple is the second most-richest temple in India. On auspicious days the queue can get as long as a few kms. Now there is a shop called prasadam next to the temple where you can buy your Prasad, or even enjoy a good meal there. Mahalaxmi Temple Fittingly enough to the financial capital of India, is this temple dedicated to the goddess of wealth, Laxmi, that's extremely busy on the day the stock market closes for the week -- a Friday. If you happen to be in the city during Navratri (nine-day festival) this is believed to be the most auspicious time to visit the temple,but be ready tostand in long queues. Mumbai Devi temple Though this temple is not as striking as the others, this temple belongs to the resident deity of Mumbai, Mumbadevi. The structure is about six centuries old, believed to be the handiwork of Mumbaraka, a sadistic giant who frequently plundered the city at the time. The goddess has an orange face and her altar is always strewn with marigolds. Devotees believe that those who seek her divine favor are never disappointed. Take a trip down here, when you visit Zaveri bazaar or Crawford market. Haji Ali Dargah This is another must go to place. Dedicated to a wealthy Muslim merchant and saint named Haji Ali, this white mosque is approached by a long walkway, as it is right in the centre of the sea at Worli. Legend has it that Haji Ali died on his way to Mecca and his body, in its casket, floated back to Mumbai. However, some believe that Haji Ali drowned at the place where the dargah stands. Avoid visiting on Thursdays and Fridays as it is teeming with devotees. Non-Muslims are permitted to walk on the causeway and in the mosque compound. Banganga In the Malabar Hill area lies a sacred tank whose water is believed to come from the Holy Ganges. It's believed that Lord Rama, in search of his kidnapped wife Sita, stopped in this area and asked his brother Laxman for water. Laxman shot an arrow into the ground, and water gushed forth from the Ganga, which is over a thousand miles away such is the story of banganga.On religious occasions many turn up to take a ritual dip in these waters. The area is dotted with temples and dharamsalas (resthouses). Once a year the Banganga musical festival is held here, where musicians perform either by the side of the tank, or right in the centre of the water body. It's a great experience. Mount Mary Church Situated on a quiet hillock in suburban Bandra, Mount Mary is probably Mumbai's best-known church for Christians and non-christians alike. As the name suggests, it is dedicated to the Mother of Christ and in September, the festival of the Virgin Mother culminates in a week long fair, popularly known as Bandra Fair, which has all the excitement of a small carnival. Stalls sell sticky Goan sweets and wax idols of the Virgin along with an assortment of candles shaped like hands, feet and various other parts of the body. The sick and suffering choose one that corresponds to their ailment and light it in Church, with the pious hope that Mother Mary will consider their appeals for help. Afghan Church Afghan Church is situated at the southern end of the Colaba Island and is better known as RC church, this lies in the sparkling clean Navy Nagar area of Bombay. The church was consecrated in 1858 and the elegant steeple that one can see till date was completed in 1865. Each part of the church is worth looking at for its details like the walls are made of rubble faced with coarse Kurla Stone, the piers, arches, coignes and dressings are of Porbunder Stone, the roof is built of varnished teakwood with hammer beam style ribbing. The floor of the chancel is made of encaustic tiles (in-laid with colored clay) imported from England. It has a beautiful altar, tall pinnacles, 21 lancet windows with exquisite stained glass fixed in the triangular apexes, on either side of the nave. A general memorial consists of series of white marble tablets bearing the names of 158 of its officers. I may have lot you in the details, but the place is truly worth a visit. The dargah of Makhdoom Ali Mahimi This dargah of the secular Sufi saint is popular as the Mahim dargah and is said to be at least 350 years old. Unlike any other in Bombay this is the only the dargah sharief to have has five domes and they sell some awesome food by the entrance of the structure. Should you wish to feed people, very close to here are a few small restaurants that feed the hungry, of all castes and creed. Iskon Better known as Hare Rama Hare Krishna Temple, it was the first religious structure to bring fame to juhu. A place of worship, meditation and spiritual knowledge, the temple advocates the principles of Bhagvad Gita as, taught by Lord Krishna and holds discourses regularly. This is one place where you can still get married, if you wish a temple wedding. Festivals Mumbai celebrated Ambedkar Jayanti and Guddi Padwa the Maharashtran New Year is celebrated in great pomp and show, very often you will see Gudi's being put up in traditional Maharashtrian families. Women dress in black, on this day and offer til-gul (made with sesame seeds and jaggery) on this day. The typical sweet Poranpoli is available all around. Besides that all the other festivals here are also celebrated as Mumbai is mixture of cultures and races thus everything is celebrated here in unity. Ganesh Festivalis one of the largest festivals to be celebrated in Mumbai with every nukkad (corner) putting upo their own pandals, competition are held for the best pandal designs too. The best one of course continues to be the lalbagh ka raja as it is fondly called. Navratri Festival yet another time for Mumbaiites to build pandals and blast some music. The city is full of people in traditional Gujarathi outfits, who set out every night to dance before the goddess. Strict time rules have curbed the tempo a bit. Holi is yet another festival that gets Mumbai all geared up, most revelers paint their faces in some ghastly combinations, of silver with brown and black, for those of you who do not like colours, it's a good time to stay indoors. Janmashtami The youth train for this festival good few months in advance, this is when huge pots, with lots of monies, are tied at tall heights of up to 60 feet. The idea is to break these pots, by creating a human pyramid. Of late women have also started enjoying this sport. And prices can vary upto a few lakhs! Entertainment The city that's always caught in the rat race, has time for entertainment too, and it's seen with Mumbai's love for movies and theatre, cultural programmes and musical escapades Prithvi TheatreNot far from Juhu Beach, is one of Mumbai's best-known theatres that belong to the Kapoor family, the First Family of Bollywood. Their annual drama festival features the best plays from India and several theatre workshops teach acting. See a play and chill out after that in its cafeiscussing the art and sipping the Irish Coffee, it's the best you can get this side of town. For show schedules, look up www.prithvitheatre.org. Prithvi is on Juhu Church Road, Vile Parle; Tel: 26149546. Kala Ghoda Festival This is one festival that's held for the karigars (craftsmen). The entire stretch of Kala Ghoda (Fort) is lined with artisans who sell their wares in all kinds of material. During the festival one can also catch the best of movies, open air plays and take part in one the Fort walks in the area. There are ten such walks to choose from. National Centre for the Performing Arts From tribal music to symphony orchestra, from poetry readings to modern dance, you can catch everything here. It's amongst the most active cultural centres in India with shows and performances everyday. NCPA is at Nariman Point; call 22833737 for information. If you are in the city between November and April, we suggest you catch a few races at the Mahalaxmi Racecourse. Besides moments of thrill, you might get to watch some celebrities up close. Check out the dailies for the racing schedule, as races are not held everyday. For some Bollywood/Hollywood movies, check out these theatres: 24-Carat (Hindi) in Jogeshwari, Apsara Multiplex (Hindi) in Versova, Regal Cinema (English) in Colaba, Fame Adlabs (both languages) in Versova, Fun Republic (both) in Andheri, Galaxy Cinema (Hindi) in Bandra, Metro Cinema (Hindi) in Dhobitalao, Inox (both) in Nariman Point. Nightlife It is a city that never sleeps. Most nightclubs stay open till the wee hours and are packed on weekends. At the top-end is Insomnia (Taj Mahal Palace and Hotel, Apollo Bunder; open 8 pm-3 am), where you are guaranteed the darshan (sighting) of at least one Bollywood star. Next on the popularity chart is Athena (Minoo Desai Marg, Colaba; open 8 pm-1 am) which mixes some great cocktails. For shaking a leg PollyEsther's (Battery Street, Colaba; open 8.30 pm-1 am). The music extends from Rock, Pop, Hip-hop to Desi. The entrance to these pubs is usually couple-only and most of them have a certain cover charge. They usually serve cocktails, mocktails and starters. Towards the north are lounges like Bed in bandra, Ontoes in juhu. Kidding around Kamala Nehru Park On Malabar Hill, children love he Old Woman's Shoe a slide shaped like a shoe. The night view of Marine Drive from here is simply fantastic. Amusement ParksBombay has plenty of these what with Essel World and its neighbor Water World, being the current favorite for all kids with rides that drop you from a few hundred feet to nothing in few seconds. Then there's also Fantasy land. They are built in international-style and great getaways for kids. Essel World is situated at Gorai / Marve creek and it is approachable by road Via Bhayandar. Most smaller travel agents will book your tickets on buses that ply between the city and this kids kingdom. Special ferries can also get you across to the park and the entrance fee normally takes care of a fixed number of rides. These include the standard roller coaster and adventure themes, plus the water world section. Summer is usually crowded, but the place also offers low budget monsoon packages and special deals on weekends. Check these out before you go.Fantasy land is easily approachable and lies in Jogeshwari east, any train going to Andheri and then auto will take you there
How to reach
Road: Both private operators and the state government run long-distance buses regularly to and from Mumbai. Depending on where you want to travel to, private long-distance buses depart from Dr. Anandrao Nair Road, near Mumbai Central, from MG Road, just south of Metro Cinema, from Dadar TT (just under the flyover). There are regular services to Pune, Ahmedabad, Aurangabad, Mahabaleshwar, Goa, Nasik, Shirdi, Kolhapur among many others. In case there are AC Volvo's plying to your destination, we suggest you take those; the drives will be a lot much more comfortable. Rail: There are three train lines that operate in and out of Mumbai, but the two important ones are Central Railways and the Western Railways. The former runs trains to the east and south, plus a few to the north and operates from the Victoria Terminus or Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), Dadar and Kurla. Western Railways has services to the north (including Rajasthan and Delhi) and operates from Mumbai Central or Bandra Terminus. Air: The Chhatrapati Shivaji airports -- two of them -- one for domestic and other for international airlines connect the city to important cities and towns within and outside India. A lot of international airlines fly to Mumbai, for those that don't you can hop onto a domestic service from your point of arrival. Water: This service applies only to a few places. You can hop onto these boats/ ferries to go to Alibag, Murud Janjira, Mandwa, Elephanta caves and other places across the coasts of Konkan. Mumbai is being linked through a seaway, but the work is a few years from completion, once this is done, you can use the waterways to get around Mumbai and its suburbs.
Distances
163 km East from Pune 373 km South from Ratnagiri 593 km South from Panjim 102 km from Lonavala 70 km from Shirdi from Daman from Lonavala-Khandala from Panchgani from Matheran
Best Seasons
October -March The best time to explore Mumbai is between the months of September and April, when the weather is relatively dry and cool. From June to September the skies open, sometimes with catastrophic results - the floods of 2005 killed nearly a thousand and left thousands more homeless. During the monsoon season, ferries to Elephanta Island and beyond stop, and trips to Sanjay Gandhi National Park and the forts and cave temples around Mumbai are often impossible. YOu might also want to avoid the months just before the monsoon breaks, when temperatures can top 40ºC (140ºF).
Places in and around
Museums and Science Centres Mani Bhawan On the yellow-flower, tree-lined quiet Laburnum Road, lies the Mumbai home of Mahatma Gandhi. This nondescript structure has a photo exhibition of the Mahatma's life, well-preserved memorabilia including an old charkha or spinning wheel that Gandhiji used and a library with over 2,000 books. Many Gandhians still frequent this place to weave fabric and spin the charkha. It is open 10 am-6 pm. Prince of Wales Museum This is one spot of Mumbai that's always flooded with tourists and locals alike. To call the building impressive is an understatement, both from the insides and outsides. The building is an impressive mix of Gothic and Islamic architectures. Inside are artifacts dating back to 2000 BC, to the Harappan period. But everybody's favourite are the over 2000 miniature paintings from various art schools of India, it also has a fine collection of oil paintings and Chinese Jade pieces. The museum itself is divided into three main sections: Art, Archaeology and Natural History. When here do not miss a miniature model of the Paris Tower of Silence at Malabar Hill.Timings are 10.15 am-6 pm, Mondays are holidays. Jehangir Art Gallery Next to the Prince of Wales Museum is Mumbai's premier gallery hosting weekly/monthly exhibitions of well-known Indian artists as well as beginners. The restaurant at the art gallery, Samovar serves some of the best snacks, parathas and sprout salads, do take a bite when you're here. The gallery becomes the centre of activity during the Kala Ghoda festival. A lot of upcoming artists and street artists, showcase their work on the promenade just outside the gallery too.Timings are 11 am-6 pm. National Gallery of Modern Art Standing tall opposite the Prince of Wales Museum is the NGMA, a devastatingly beautiful structure that was once the old public hall. The gallery showcases works of India's best-known artists. There is one permanent exhibit, while the rest of the gallery is used by various artists to put up their shows. If you are into art this is one place you must come too, it's your window to the country's contemporary art scenario. The museum is open 11 am-6 pm; Mondays are holidays. Nehru Centre and Planetarium The spank centre built as a memorial to India's first prime minister has an elaborate Discovery of India exhibition, a must visit for anyone interested in the history of our country. The planetarium next door is also very popular with amateur astronomers. Daily shows reveal the timeless mysteries of the cosmos. It is open all days except Mondays with shows in three languages. Beaches Though Mumbai originally was a cluster of seven islands, it has only three main beaches to talk about now. Chowpatty Mumbai's most famous beach is better known for the yummy food you get in the tiny eateries here, than it is known for the sand and the surf. This is where Mumbai's biggest Ganapati's come for immersion during the 11 day ganesh-utsav festival. At that time this part of the city is best organized as there are hundred of cops all over and the roads are made one-way. A Nana Nani Park has recently been created around the beach, it also now houses a water sports complex (closed during the rainy months). Come here to feed the pigeons, there's a huge feeding ground, Just next to the beach stands teen batti, a signaling post that was used for the ships coming to bay in the yester years. Juhu Scampering children, romancing couples and evening joggers, that's Juhu but more than that, this is the place for golas (ice lolly) and chaats. There is no better place to experience the true Mumbaiya spirit than here. Stay out of the water and avoid coming here on a Sunday though, and for those of you who wish to sip some warm liquids after a cool day by the beach, there's Mocha right opposite and the very famous Shiv Sagar for all kinds of good food and drinks around the corner. Bandstand At the very end of Bandra, Bandstand is known for its lovely jogger's park, the homes of a few well known celebs and the promenade that got a lot of attention during its make over. That apart this is one place where you can enjoy a quiet meal at the sea side cafe and can actually sit on the rocky beach and watch the sea all day long. Parks, Gardens & Offbeat spots Sanjay Gandhi National Park Mumbai is the only city to have a national park within its city limits! But over time this green lung also seems to be shrinking with the city growing far faster than its means to provide space to live. Nevertheless the park still has a few leopards, tigers (all captive), birds and butterflies, deers, monkeys, hyenas. The national park opens into the Yevur hills of Thane onto the other end. For the kids they have a 30-minute lion and tiger safari that starts at about 1 km distance from the entrance gate. Within the park are the Kanheri Caves, a monastery where monks practiced their austerities around the 1st century AD. Unlike Elephanta, these caves are much simpler. Hanging Gardens Atop Malabar Hill, it offers great views of the whole of Mumbai city. These gardens are just opposite the Kamala Nehru Park and provide lovely sunset views over the Arabian Sea. The park was laid out in the early 1880s over Bombay's main reservoir, some say to cover the water from the potentially contaminating activity of the nearby Towers of Silence. It to date is a great place to hang out. Priyadarshini Park The park where the elite of Bombay come to walk, Priyadarshini Park is on the busy Neapean Sea road. This is the only park to offer yoga classes by the morning and evening. Laughter clubs are also associated with this park, so don't be surprised to see a group of grown men and women laughing their guts out while you are on your morning walk! Catchy Corners Khotachiwadi Amidst the high rises of South Mumbai is this hamlet of Maharashtrian Hindus and Christians. Near Opera House lies this tiny wadi with smaller gallies (streets) and homes that are reminiscent of old village homes, with a city touch to it. The colors on the homes here are extremely young and alive. A few of Bombay's famous personalities stay here, when you're here go across to anantashram for awesome fish food. Dhobi Ghat Here is where the dhobis (washermen) of Mumbai unite, wash the dirty linen collected from all over and return it neatly pressed to every house, all for a pittance. The endless lines of dhobis soaping, rinsing, and drying clothes is a sight to behold. The Ghat is near Mahalaxmi railway station. Fishy Corners! Sassoon Dock The fishing area in downtown Colaba, this is where you will rub shoulders with the typical fisherfolk of Mumbai. There is a perpetual pervasive smell of fish and chaos reigns, yet Sassoon dock is an experience worth undertaking. The streets here are full of nets either being woven together or those full of fresh catch. Worli Fishing Village It is inhabited by the Kolis, the original residents of Mumbai. These tribal fisherfolk live here in tightly knit communities, the colourful koli women, their dark skins offset by chunky tribal jewellery are great photo subjects. Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Museum Kala Ghoda Mumbai Treasures Also known as the Prince of Wales Museum, this institution is set in an ornamental garden. Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus Fort Mumbai's Heart The CST is worth a visit whether you're catching a train or not. Chowpatty Beach Chowpatty Walk The Sands Chowpatty is still a favourite spot for anyone out to enjoy what passes for fresh air. Crawford Market Kalbadevi The colourful indoor Crawford Market (or Phule Market) is the last outpost of British Bombay Elephanta Island Elephanta Island Terrific Temple Island Every day except Monday, a flotilla of tourist boats heads out from the Gateway of India Gateway of India Colaba This yellow basalt arch of triumph is an exaggerated colonial marker . Mani Bhavan Chowpatty The building where Mahatma Gandhi stayed during his visits to Bombay . National Gallery of Modern Art Kala Ghoda This gallery in the Sir Cowasji Jehangir Public Hall is a bright, spacious and modern exhibition. Nehru Planetarium and Nehru Centre Worli The most striking thing about this cultural complex is the bold modern architecture. St Thomas' Cathedral Fort This charming church is the oldest English building in Mumbai.